What is the right roller for your vintage hairstyle?
We’ve all been there… scrolling endlessly online through hair roller options only to give up in frustration. 😫 Honestly, when I was product researching for this blog post I started to get a little dizzy.
Or have you bought a set of rollers that you thought were right and then found out that they were completely wrong for your curling needs? This is your invitation to comment with your curler horror stories… or curler wins!
Yup. We all know that not all rollers are created equal. Some are soft and sleepable. Others are rigid and precise.
If you are still on the curler struggle bus on your way to cranky town, let this blog post be your hair roller road map to that beautiful vintage hairstyle land so many ladies seem to be traveling to.
Contents: (click to jump)
Whether you’re looking to recreate 1940s pin curls, 1950s bombshell waves, or 1960s bouffant volume, the right roller can make your set easier, and more authentic. The “best roller” is really what is right for you… What gets the job done for your hair.
In this guide, I’ll break down the differences between rollers that are available today and explain which ones are best for specific hair types and specific vintage hair goals. And I will provide links to some reputable brands for sale, including some that I sell here on VintageHairstyling.com.
Disclosure: Some of the links in this post may earn me a commission. I link these items because of their quality and not because of the commission I may receive. I am an independent blogger and the reviews are done based on my own opinions.
What Details to Consider When Buying a Roller
Most all rollers fall into two main categories: soft rollers and rigid rollers. And within these categories are you can start getting into finer details like airflow and size. All of these details play a different role depending on the kind of vintage style you’re going for and all have their pros and cons.
Soft vs. Rigid
The soft vs. rigid comparison goes a lot deeper than just how they feel. Yes, because they are soft, soft curlers are best for overnight sets or if you have a sensitive scalp. They are comfortable, easy to use, and make a great curl.
Soft rollers, on the other hand, can compress differently depending on how tightly you roll, which can lead to inconsistencies, especially when you’re working through an entire head.
Rigid rollers may lack that comfort factor, but they more than make up for it in an even vintage curl. If you’re after curl precision (especially for sculpted vintage sets), rigid rollers are your best friend.
One of the biggest benefits of a rigid roller is predictability. Because the roller is made from firm material, it holds its shape no matter how much pressure you apply while rolling. That means two rollers set side by side, assuming you’ve used the same amount of hair, will produce nearly identical curls. No collapsing. No flattening. No surprises.
Airflow vs. Drying time/tools
When you’re working with a wet set, a major factor effecting your experience is how much air can move through and around the roller, and hence through and around your hair strands. The slightest of damp left in the strands will ruin your hard work.
So you have high, medium, and low airflow rollers. Consider what process you know you are going to use for setting when deciding what air circulation you require. Wire mesh or Velcro® self-grip rollers, have open or perforated surfaces that let air circulate freely. Others, like flexi rods, are completely solid and hold moisture in, which can make the set take longer to dry unless you’re using a lot of heat or have very quick-drying hair.
Foam sponge rollers may look dense, but land in the middle of the air flow spectrum. The foam actually allows a decent amount of air to move through, especially if you’re using a bonnet or hood dryer on low heat. In the curler sections below, I’ll get into the airflow behavior of each roller type.
Size Matters
Obviously, the size of the curler is important… And let’s also remember the other size factor… hair density and length… And the number of curlers you use (which kind of relates to how much hair you use in each roller).
All of these factors become a formula for you to work out.
“I was told there would be no math.”
Your curler size controls the size of the curl + The amount of hair (density + length) wrapped around the curler controls the size of the curl.
Below, I set the hair using all of the same techniques, except on the camera left side of the head, I used 8 rollers and on the camera right side 4 rollers.
- More rollers/less hair per roller = tighter/more consistent curl
- Fewer rollers/more hair per roller = looser/bigger waves
So How Many Rollers Do I Need?
Depending on the size of the roller, 12-20 rollers is a good place to start. With very larger rollers, 12 will go a long way (2 on top, 2 on each side and 6 at the back). For medium rollers, 1″ or so, 3 on top, 2 on the sides and 9 or so on the back. Smaller rollers can be split in to 4 on top, 2-3 on the sides, and 10 at the back.
Soft Hair Roller Options
The best soft rollers for vintage curls include Sponge Foam Rollers, Rockin’ Rollers, Wire Closure Pillow Rollers, Spoolies, and Rag Rollers.
Disclaimer: I believe calling rollers heatless can be deceiving with vintage hair. I always love getting my rollers under a hood hair dryer. Although it is not high heat, it still has some heat involved.
Sponge Foam Rollers
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These foam rollers have a hard plastic bar that goes through the center of the sponge base and a rectangle clip attached that goes over the hair to hold it in place.
The sponge foam makes these a nice soft option to sleep in and the sponge actually works to absorb some of the moisture from your setting spray which saves you a little setting time, albeit not a lot.
The clip holder can leave a minor dent in the hair, so to avoid this, some ladies will remove the clip on the curls worn at the top of the head where a mark might be more apparent and use something like a hair pin to secure the roller for setting. I prefer these MetaGrip pins for this as they are less prone to slipping.
If you have never used a sponge foam roller like this and your hair sets fairly normal, I suggest buying a size that is a little larger. As you can see in the below image, when you roll your hair, it collapses the foam a little. If you get a roller that is too small, your curls could end up way too tiny.
- Want a classic vintage curly curl? → Try 1 1/4″ or 3 cm sponge roller
- Hair doesn’t curl very well? → Try a smaller 1″ or 2.5 cm sponge curler
Good for:
- All hair textures
- Curly hair decades like the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s hairstyles
Avoid if:
- Have tons of very long hair
- Want more volume styles like the 1960s
My Top Picks…
Annie® Sponge Foam Rollers 1.25 inch
Conair® Soft Foam Curlers Set
Foam Rollers on VintageHairstyling.com
Conair® Satin Covered Foam Rollers
How much do we love the classic image of Tootsie in bed at night with her sponge rollers in?
But now that I know more about rollers, it does bug me that I know that these rollers, set like that, with no cap, never would have stayed in that wig while she slept.
Rockin’ Rollers Soft Hair Curlers
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I’m starting with Rockin’ Rollers Soft Hair Curlers, because I really do think they are great curlers for vintage curls… not just because they are my product. I only sell things I really love.
They are one size, but they are extremely versatile once you know the tricks, which I lay out in the tutorial videos I made for the rollers.
Technically these are still sponge foam rollers, because they are filled with foam. So they are great for comfort and sleeping in. But the entire roller, including the securing mechanism are covered in fabric with snaps at the end to secure them. The curlers are meant to link together and they are a dream to sleep in for overnight sets.
In the images above, the Rockin’ Rollers made all of these hairstyles. Their variations come from the different hair lengths and textures.
Good for:
- Hair lengths 4-5″ or longer
- All hair textures
- Curly decade hairstyles like the 1920s, 1930s, and 1940s
Avoid if:
- Styling more volume hairstyles like the 1960s
Get online…
Rockin’ Rollers Soft Hair Curlers
Rockin’ Rollers Soft hair Curlers
Wire Closure Foam Rollers
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These fabric covered foam rollers have a built-in bendable wire core that is used to secure the curl. And honestly I was very confused by these rollers for a very long time.
All the images I had seen of women using them showed them wound super tight… which just looks like it would take forever to dry, unless you have baby fine hair.
So that’s my advice to everyone on these. If you have baby fine hair that will not stay in a roller, these might be the right rollers for you. And you can twist the wire to really hold it in place.
You might also like: Miss Curlette Hair Setting Potion Spray
BUT… If your hair isn’t super fine, these are still helpful curlers, but they need to be treated and secured differently. It was after I saw someone on tiktok finally use them differently that I understood the design better.
First… They have to be washed out of the package. The sponge is so squished when you first get them. This expands the sponge inside the roller to its fullest volume.
Then you roll them like a regular sponge roller. Secure it by flat bending the end wire over the curler without bending the foam section. They are actually a pretty good sized roller and sturdy with these steps.
I think these would be really nice for some 1950s curls a la Diana Dors or Jayne Mansfield.
Good for:
- Fine and medium texture hair
- Curly vintage hairstyles like the 1940s and 1950s
Avoid if:
- Hair is both very long and thick
- Styling more volume hairstyles like the 1960s
My Top Picks…
20 piece Sponge Pillow Wire Closure Rollers
30 piece Sponge Pillow Wire Closure Rollers
20 piece Sponge Pillow WIre Closure Rollers
Spoolies (Silicone Pin Curl Rollers)
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Before we move on, can we just take a moment to admire how cute Spoolies are now? The official Spoolie brand rollers (not the knockoffs) have a vintage-style starburst design embossed into the silicone — a fun little nod to their 1950s origins. Oh… AND Made in the USA!
They’re made from soft, flexible silicone, so I’ve included them in the soft roller category, because the silicone will collapse a little when you lay on them. If you plan to sleep in them, I’d recommend wearing a satin bonnet for added comfort and hold.
Spoolies work by wrapping the hair around the base and snapping the top shut to enclose the curl inside a dome. This creates a rounded curl shape similar to a pin curl — without the need for pins or clips.
You might also like: Pastel Hair Craze of the 1950s and How to Do it Today
Spoolies were originally invented in the 1950s as a tidy, travel-friendly alternative to traditional rollers. A modern company has since revived the brand and improved the design while keeping the original spirit alive. And I absolutely love to see a vintage tool make a comeback like this.
My one hesitation on these for vintage curls is the lower air circulation. Since the cap flips over the curl, you are losing that important element for faster setting time. But if your hair dries quickly like my fine hair, then you will probably be good with these.
Good For:
- Fine to medium hair
- Medium-length hair
- Pin curl–style sets (perfect for 1940s–1950s curls)
- Fans of vintage beauty history
Avoid If:
- Very long or thick hair, but looking for tight curls
- Need fast dry times
- Want high-volume looks like 1960s bouffants
Fabric Rollers (Rag Rollers)
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I am including the fabric roller, also known as the rag roller, category in the list, because they are a legitimate curling option.
Rollers like the Rockin’ Rollers and the wire closure sponge roller are very similar, but in a classic rag roller, there is no sponge interior.
These rollers are generally hand made at home out of cotton fabric scraps and are also very comfortable to sleep in.
Great for:
- Overnight curling
- Fans of vintage beauty techniques
Avoid if:
- Have very thick hair
- Trying for bigger curls
My Top Picks…
Curler Bows – Ribbon Roller Set
Homemade Rag Roller Directions Download
Rigid Roller Options
I wouldn’t suggest trying to sleep in them… although I have been known to take a nap in them with my face balancing on the slim edge of a pillow. What they lack in comfort, they more than make up for in a consistent vintage curl.
Rigid rollers are also known as hard rollers… which makes them sound unpleasant, but that is far from the truth. These are a solid, no pun intended, option for great vintage sets.
Rigid rollers are all about control. If you’re looking for definition, uniformity, and a truly vintage curl structure, this is the roller to explore. Rigid rollers include magnetic rollers, wire mesh brush rollers, Self-grip (Velcro®) rollers, and flexi rods.
Magnetic Rollers
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A personal favorite of mine… They are hard plastic cylinders with a smooth surface and open and hollow through the center.
They come in a ton of different diameters, so you can set really small curls in a 5/8″ (1.6 cm) roller perfect for short hair and tight 1920s or 1940s curls…
Or you can get rollers in 2″ (5 cm), 2.5″ (6.5 cm), even as large as 3″ (7.5 cm) jumbo versions that give you soft volume and classic 1960s bouffant lift. This size versatility makes them a go-to choice for just about every vintage decade, and for nearly every hair length.
These rollers do require clips, like single prong for small curlers or slide-in clips for medium and large curlers, to hold them in place while setting.
Because they’re solid plastic, there’s less air circulation then some other rigid rollers, so they’re best used under a hood dryer or with some focused blow-dry action with a diffuser if you’re working with damp hair. But if you’re okay with a little dry time, the results are worth it: crisp, clean curls with defined shape and smooth ends.
There is nothing “magnetic” about them. There are no magnets in these rollers. The only reason I can come up with as to why they call them magnetic is that, while you are setting your damp hair with styling lotion or gel, the hair does almost stick to the plastic roller.
Good For:
- All hair lengths
- Precise wet sets with strong structure
- Vintage styles from many decades
Avoid If:
- You’re looking for a sleep-in roller (they’re definitely not soft)
My Top Picks…
Lovely Lady Magnetic Rollers
Magnetic Roller Set
Salon Care Magnetic Rollers with Holder
For the Pro: Comprehensive Magnetic Rollers Set on Amazon
Wire Mesh Rollers
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Wire mesh rollers are a true workhorse in the world of vintage wet sets, especially if you’re looking for lift, airflow, and classic curl structure. I really don’t have anything negative to say about them. I’m starting to question why I don’t sell them in my own online shop. I may be fixing that soon. 😂
These rigid rollers are made from a plastic mesh body supported by a wire frame, which gives them both structure and breathability. That open mesh design allows maximum air circulate around the curl, making them an ideal choice for use under a hood or bonnet dryer. Or even a wear-it-at-the-grocery-store roller. (Yes I do that)
Less drying time, more vintage glam… always a win.
You will find them available in two variations: with or without an internal brush core. So it is important to check carefully when purchasing if you prefer one over the other.
You might also like: Hair Curlers or Pin curls in public? Yes it is fine. That’s the end of it.
The brush version (commonly called brush rollers) has a plastic spool-like insert inside the mesh, with short bristles that stick out slightly beyond the wire frame. FYI… The interior brush can be removed as well. But these little brush teeth do a few things at once:
- They act as a mini-brush while you roll. Just run the roller along the section smoothing the as you go.
- They give the roller a bit of grip, helping the hair hold in place.
That said, those spool bristles can snag on fragile, tight natural curls, or easily tangled hair, so be gentle and take your time, especially if your hair is fine or prone to breaking.
My Top Brush Roller Picks…
Conair Brush Rollers
Alazco Brush Rollers
Supply Note on brush rollers: I am finding that the brush insert version in pretty colors may not last much longer. The Conair pretty color ones with white interior brush are still available here on Amazon, but they look like they are NOS. Or I am finding some on resale websites like Ebay. You can find some brand new black ones on Amazon here.
Then there is the non-brush version, which is simply the plastic mesh tube supported by the wire frame. You’ll still get the same curl results and airflow benefits, just without the added grip or brush-as-you-roll feature.
They are typically secured with plastic roller pins (sold separately in many cases). I prefer slide-in clips to secure these rollers.
If you’re building out a versatile roller collection, mesh rollers are worth including. They come in a wide range of diameters, so you can get anything from tight curls to full, brushed-out waves depending on your set goals.
Good For:
- All hair types, especially medium to thick
- Wet sets that need to dry quickly under heat
- Styles that need structure like the 1940s and body like the 1950s and 1960s
- Large versions (up to 2.5″) are great for 1970s blowout-style curls a la Farrah Fawcett.
Avoid If:
- If hair is fragile, tight natural curl, or tangle-prone hair, use the roller without the internal brush
My Top Picks without brush (picks/clips sold separately)…
Annie 1 1/8″ Wire Frame Mesh Rollers
Annie 7/8″ Wire Frame Mesh Rollers
Donna 1 3/4″ Wire Frame Mesh Rollers
Self Grip (Velcro®) Rollers
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These rollers might not be vintage in origin, but they’ve earned their place in the modern vintage hair toolkit. You won’t find the word Velcro on the packaging anymore (that’s a trademarked brand name), but make no mistake: the technology is the same. When you search for “Velcro rollers” online, these are what you’ll get.
Originally patented in 1955, the hook-and-loop system now lives in the public domain and makes an excellent roller material. The little hooks on the surface of the roller grip the hair as you roll, which means no clips, no pins, and no fuss.
The perforated surface allows for excellent airflow, so they dry faster than solid-core rollers.
These rollers are in my kit for 2 very specific scenarios:
1. They are true short-hair saviors.
These rollers are a total game-changer when your hair isn’t quite long enough to behave. Ideally, your hair should wrap around a roller at least twice to really stay put — but what if you’re working with shorter layers or just need that 1-inch roller for the look you’re going for? That’s where the Velcro-like surface comes to the rescue. It grabs on and holds the hair in place, even if you’re only getting one full wrap. No clips, no slipping, no curling dreams dashed.
2. They are Volume Amplifiers.
If you are looking for big 1960s hair, self grip rollers will do the trick. Back when I was in college, before I figured out I wanted to be a hairstylist, I went to a swanky salon in Scottsdale with my sister where she was going to get her haircut. If you can picture it, the haircut was a lovely, basically, 90 degree (with a little 180) haircut… Long layers so to speak. But… it was when he whipped out the 3 inch Velcro® self grip rollers and put Sara under the hairdryer that I saw real magic. My jaw was on the floor from how much volume her hair had.
I do have cautions to go with these rollers. While they’re generally safe, treat them with the same caution you’d give any tool with tiny teeth. If your hair tends to grab onto round brushes or snag in combs, these might not be your best bet. And if you’re working with naturally curly hair, I’d steer you toward magnetic rollers instead… same shape, less risk of tangling.
Good For:
- Short hair not long enough to stay wrapped around rollers
- Prepping retro styles with soft root lift (especially 1960s-inspired looks)
- Creating volume at the crown
Avoid If:
- You have very curly, coily, or easily tangled hair. They can catch and pull
- Your hair is damage-prone or snags on brushes. They may grip too well.
My Top Picks…
Self-Gripping Rollers
Conair Self Grip Variety Size Rollers
X-Small Self Grip Rollers
Set 36 Small Self Grip Rollers
Flexi Rod Rollers
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Flexi rods are a modern curling tool, but they’ve earned a spot on this list, because the curl shape they create, especially when used on damp hair, closely mimics tight curls you’d see in vintage pin curl sets from the 1920s and 1930s.
The smallest roller sizes available in flexi rods are really small, so you can get a really small curl.
They are made from a solid foam exterior with a bendable wire core. You wrap the hair around the rod, then bend the ends together to hold the curl in place. No clips or pins required.
While they absolutely can give you a nice curl (and they come in lots of different diameters), honestly, they’ve always been a bit of a head-scratcher for me when it comes to wet sets.
Unlike mesh or magnetic rollers, flexi rods are solid all the way through, so there’s no airflow under the curl. That means longer drying times. And since they are not comfortable to sleep in, you don’t even get the overnight drying benefit of sponge or Rockin’ Rollers. So unless you have the time to air-dry during the day or plan to sit under a hood dryer for a while, they may not be the most efficient choice.
I could see them working well for a specific scenario. If your only pretreatment on your dry hair is a foam curling product and you also sit under a hood dryer, you could probably get a really nice curl out of these. If you already have a set and you’re curious about trying them for a vintage style, don’t let me stop you. They can work, especially for tighter curly styles.
Good For:
- Most hair types
- Spiral curls and tight wet-set styles
- Vintage looks from the 1920s, 1930s, and 1940s with defined curls
Avoid If:
- You want a fast drying time or overnight sets
My Top Picks…
Goody 30 count Flexi Rods
30 piece Flexi Rod Set
Other Must-haves for Great Curler Sets
The curler is not a magic wand by itself. A great curler set has a few more ingredients. My must-have items for my curl sets include:
Setting lotion:
Curl fasten tools:
- Slide-in Clips (for magnetic, wire mesh, or even velcro rollers)
- Anti-slip Premium Hair Pins (great for all hair rollers)
- Roller pins (for magnetic or wire mesh rollers)
Other great tools:
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1 Comment
Emily
As a beginner to hair styling, especially vintage styles, I appreciate this post so much. Will be a great reference!