The Best Hair Roller for You… The ultimate guide to a classic curling tool

We’ve all been there… scrolling endlessly online through hair roller options only to give up in frustration. 😫 Honestly, when I was product researching for this blog post I started to get a little dizzy.

Or have you bought a set of rollers that you thought were right and then found out that they were completely wrong for your curling needs? This is your invitation to comment with your curler horror stories 😱… or curler wins!

Yup. We all know that not all rollers are created equal. Some are soft and sleepable. Others are rigid and precise.

If you are still on the curler struggle bus 🚌 on your way to cranky town, let this blog post be your hair roller road map to that beautiful vintage hairstyle land so many ladies seem to be traveling to.

Roller Styles

Most all rollers fall into two main categories: soft rollers and hard rollers. And within these categories are you can start getting into finer details like solid vs. hollow, flexible vs. rigid. Each has its pros and cons and each plays a different role depending on the kind of vintage style you’re going for.

The “best roller” is really what is right for you… What gets the job done for your hair.

Whether you’re looking to recreate 1940s pin curls, 1950s bombshell waves, or 1960s bouffant volume, the right roller can make your set easier, and more authentic.

In this guide, I’ll break down the differences between rollers that are available today and explain which ones are best for specific hair types and specific vintage hair goals. And I will provide links to some reputable brands for sale, including some that I sell here on VintageHairstyling.com.

Soft Hair Rollers

Included in the soft roller category are sponge foam rollers, various fabric covered sponge rollers, and fabric rollers.

As you can guess, because they are soft, these types of curlers are best for overnight sets, for heatless curls if you want, or if you have a sensitive scalp.

Disclaimer: I believe calling rollers heatless can be deceiving with vintage hair. I always love getting my rollers under a hood hair dryer. Although it is not high heat, it still has some heat involved.

Classic sponge foam roller

These foam rollers have a hard plastic bar that goes through the center of the sponge base and a rectangle clip attached that goes over the hair to hold it in place.

The sponge foam makes these a nice soft option to sleep in and the sponge actually works to absorb some of the moisture from your setting spray which saves you a little setting time, albeit not a lot.

The clip holder can leave a minor dent in the hair, so to avoid this, some ladies will remove the clip on the curls worn at the top of the head where a mark might be more apparent and use something like a hair pin to secure the roller for setting.

And I know it looks a little odd leaving the plastic center bar, but it adds a little rigidity to the curler, which I like to have for setting.

If you have never used a sponge foam roller like this and your hair sets fairly normal, I suggest buying a size that is a little larger. As you can see in the below image, when you roll your hair, it collapses the foam a little. If you get a roller that is too small, your curls could end up way too tiny.

• Want a classic vintage curly curl? → Try 1 1/4″ or 3 cm sponge roller
• Hair doesn’t curl very well? → Try a smaller 1″ or 2.5 cm sponge curler

How much do we love the classic image of Tootsie in bed at night with her sponge rollers in?

But now that I know more about rollers, it does bug me that I know that these rollers, set like that, with no cap, never would have stayed in that wig while she slept.

Fabric Covered Sponge Rollers

Technically these are still sponge foam rollers, because they are filled with foam. So they are great for comfort and sleeping in. But the entire roller, including the securing mechanism are covered in fabric.

The fabric’s added benefit reduces the risk of dents from hard securing parts and it gives the curler more density.

Rockin’ Rollers Soft Hair Curlers

I’m starting with Rockin’ Rollers Soft Hair Curlers, because I really do think they are great curlers for vintage curls… not just because they are my product. I only sell things I really love.

They are one size, but they are extremely versatile once you know the tricks, which I lay out in the tutorial videos I made for the rollers.

They are one long sponge foam piece, covered in fabric with snaps at the end to secure them. The curlers are meant to link together and they are a dream to sleep in for overnight sets.

In the images above, the Rockin’ Rollers made all of these hairstyles. Their variations come from the different hair lengths and textures.

Wire Closure Foam Rollers

These fabric covered foam rollers have a built-in bendable wire core that is used to secure the curl. And honestly I was very confused by these rollers for a very long time.

All the images I had seen of women using them showed them wound super tight… which just looks like it would take forever to dry, unless you have baby fine hair.

So that’s my advice to everyone on these. If you have baby fine hair that will not stay in a roller, these might be the right rollers for you. And you can twist the wire to really hold it in place.

BUT… If your hair isn’t super fine, these are still helpful curlers, but they need to be treated and secured differently. It was after I saw someone on tiktok finally use them differently that I understood the design better.

First… They have to be washed out of the package. The sponge is so squished when you first get them. This expands the sponge inside the roller to its fullest volume.

Then you roll them like a regular sponge roller. Secure it by flat bending the end wire over the curler without bending the foam section. They are actually a pretty good sized roller and sturdy with these steps.

I think these would be really nice for some 1950s curls a la Diana Dors or Jayne Mansfield.

Spoolies (Silicone Pin Curl Rollers)

Before we move on, can we just take a moment to admire how cute Spoolies are now? The official Spoolie brand rollers (not the knockoffs) have a vintage-style starburst design embossed into the silicone — a fun little nod to their 1950s origins. Oh… AND Made in the USA!

They’re made from soft, flexible silicone, so I’ve included them in the soft roller category, because the silicone will collapse a little when you lay on them. If you plan to sleep in them, I’d recommend wearing a satin bonnet for added comfort and hold.

Spoolies work by wrapping the hair around the base and snapping the top shut to enclose the curl inside a dome. This creates a rounded curl shape similar to a pin curl — without the need for pins or clips.

Spoolies were originally invented in the 1950s as a tidy, travel-friendly alternative to traditional rollers. A modern company has since revived the brand and improved the design while keeping the original spirit alive. And I absolutely love to see a vintage tool make a comeback like this.

My one hesitation on these for vintage curls is the lower air circulation. Since the cap flips over the curl, you are losing that important element for faster setting time. But if your hair dries quickly like my fine hair, then you will probably be good with these.

Fabric Rollers (Rag Rollers)

I am including the fabric roller, also known as the rag roller, category in the list, because they are a legitimate curling option.

Rollers like the Rockin’ Rollers and the wire closure sponge roller are very similar, but in a classic rage roller, there is no sponge interior.

These rollers are generally hand made at home out of cotton fabric scraps and are also very comfortable to sleep in.

Rigid Rollers

Rigid rollers are also known as hard rollers… which makes them sound unpleasant, but that is far from the truth. These are a solid, no pun intended, option for great vintage sets.

I wouldn’t suggest trying to sleep in them… although I have been known to take a nap in them with my face balancing on the slim edge of a pillow. What they lack in comfort, they more than make up for in a great vintage curl. If you’re after curl precision (especially for sculpted vintage sets), rigid rollers are your best friend

One of the biggest benefits of a rigid roller is predictability. Because the roller is made from firm material, it holds its shape no matter how much pressure you apply while rolling. That means two rollers set side by side, assuming you’ve used the same amount of hair, will produce nearly identical curls. No collapsing. No flattening. No surprises.

Soft rollers, on the other hand, can compress differently depending on how tightly you roll, which can lead to inconsistencies, especially when you’re working through an entire head.

In short: rigid rollers are all about control. If you’re looking for definition, uniformity, and a truly vintage curl structure, this is the roller family to explore. Rigid rollers include magnetic rollers, wire mesh brush rollers, Self-grip (Velcro®) rollers, and flexi rods.

Magnetic Rollers

A personal favorite of mine… They are hard plastic cylinders with a smooth surface and open and hollow through the center.

They come in a ton of different diameters and require curler or slide-in clips to hold them in place while setting.

They come in a wide range of sizes, from 5/8″ rollers perfect for short hair and tight 1920s or 1940s curls, to jumbo 2″ versions that give you soft volume and classic 1960s bouffant lift. This size versatility makes them a go-to choice for just about every vintage decade, and for nearly every hair length.

Because they’re solid plastic, there’s less air circulation then some other rigid rollers, so they’re best used under a hood dryer or with some focused blow-dry action with a diffuser if you’re working with damp hair. But if you’re okay with a little dry time, the results are worth it: crisp, clean curls with defined shape and smooth ends.

No, there is nothing “magnetic” about them. The only reason I can come up with as to why they call them magnetic is that, while you are setting your damp hair with styling lotion on the roller, the hair does almost stick to the plastic roller.

Wire Mesh Rollers

Wire mesh rollers are a true workhorse in the world of vintage wet sets, especially if you’re looking for lift, airflow, and classic curl structure. I really don’t have anything negative to say about them. I’m starting to question why I don’t sell them in my own online shop. I may be fixing that soon. 😂

These rigid rollers are made from a plastic mesh body supported by a wire frame, which gives them both structure and breathability. That open mesh design allows maximum air circulate around the curl, making them an ideal choice for use under a hood or bonnet dryer. Or even a wear-it-at-the-grocery-store roller. (Yes I do that)

Less drying time, more vintage glam… always a win.

They were commonly available in two variations: with or without an internal brush core.

But in working on this post, I am finding that the brush insert version in pretty colors may be going the way of the Dodo bird. The pretty color ones with white interior brush are still available here on Amazon, but they look like they are NOS. Or I am finding some on resale websites like Ebay. You can find some brand new black ones on Amazon here.

The brush version (commonly called brush rollers) has a plastic spool-like insert inside the mesh, with short bristles that stick out slightly beyond the wire frame. FYI… The interior brush can be removed as well. But these little brush teeth do a few things at once:

• They act as a mini-comb while you roll. Just run the roller along the section of hair a few times before you actually roll the curl up, smoothing the sections as you go.
• They give the roller a bit of grip, helping the hair hold in place (though not quite as much grip as self grip Velcro® rollers offer).

That said, those spool bristles can snag on fragile, tight natural curls, or easily tangled hair, so be gentle and take your time, especially if your hair is fine or prone to breaking.

Then there is the non-brush version, which is simply the plastic mesh tube supported by the wire frame, without the plastic brush insert. You’ll still get the same curl results and airflow benefits, just without the added grip or brush-as-you-roll feature.

They are typically secured with plastic roller pins (sold separately in many cases). Although slide-in clips are great for these too.

If you’re building out a versatile roller collection, mesh rollers are worth including. They come in a wide range of diameters, so you can get anything from tight curls to full, brushed-out waves depending on your set goals.

Self Grip (Velcro®) Rollers

These rollers might not be vintage in origin, but they’ve earned their place in the modern vintage hair toolkit. You won’t find the word Velcro on the packaging anymore (that’s a trademarked brand name), but make no mistake: the technology is the same. When you search for “Velcro rollers” online, these are what you’ll get.

Find them:

• Self grip rollers on VH.vom
• Self grip rollers on Amazon

Originally patented in 1955, the hook-and-loop system now lives in the public domain and makes an excellent roller material. The little hooks on the surface of the roller grip the hair as you roll, which means no clips, no pins, and no fuss.

The perforated surface allows for excellent airflow, so they dry faster than solid-core rollers.

These rollers are my favorite for 2 very specific scenarios.

• They are true short-hair saviors.

These rollers are a total game-changer when your hair isn’t quite long enough to behave. Ideally, your hair should wrap around a roller at least twice to really stay put — but what if you’re working with shorter layers or just need that 1-inch roller for the look you’re going for? That’s where the Velcro-like surface comes to the rescue. It grabs on and holds the hair in place, even if you’re only getting one full wrap. No clips, no slipping, no curling dreams dashed.

• They are Volume Amplifiers.

If you are looking for big 1960s hair, self grip rollers will do the trick. Back when I was in college, before I figured out I wanted to be a hairstylist, I went to a swanky salon in Scottsdale with my sister where she was going to get her haircut. If you can picture it, the haircut was a lovely, basically, 90 degree (with a little 180) haircut… Long layers so to speak. But… it was when he whipped out the 3 inch Velcro® self grip rollers and put Sara under the hairdryer that I saw real magic. My jaw was on the floor from how much volume her hair had.

I do have cautions to go with these rollers. While they’re generally safe, treat them with the same caution you’d give any tool with tiny teeth. If your hair tends to grab onto round brushes or snag in combs, these might not be your best bet. And if you’re working with naturally curly hair, I’d steer you toward magnetic rollers instead… same shape, less risk of tangling.

Flexi Rod Rollers

Flexi rods are a modern curling tool, but they’ve earned a spot on this list because the curl shape they create, especially when used on damp hair, closely mimics tight, sculpted curls you’d see in vintage pin curl sets from the 1930s and 1940s.

They’re made from a solid foam exterior with a bendable wire core. You wrap the hair around the rod, then bend the ends inward to hold the curl in place. No clips or pins required.

While they absolutely can give you a nice curl (and they come in lots of different diameters), honestly, they’ve always been a bit of a head-scratcher for me when it comes to wet sets.

Unlike mesh or magnetic rollers, flexi rods are solid all the way through, so there’s no airflow under the curl. That means longer drying times. And since they’re not comfortable to sleep in, you don’t even get the overnight drying benefit of sponge or Rockin’ Rollers. So unless you have the time to air-dry during the day or plan to sit under a hood dryer for a while, they may not be the most efficient choice.

I could see them working well for a specific scenario. If your only pretreatment on your dry hair is a foam curling product and you also sit under a hood dryer, you could probably get a really nice curl out of these. If you already have a set and you’re curious about trying them for a vintage style, don’t let me stop you. They can work, especially for tighter curly styles.

Flexi rods can definitely deliver a curl, but if you’re serious about efficiency or comfort, you might want to reach for a more breathable roller, especially for regular wet sets.